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These are my views and findings and I do not
guarantee or warrantee
any of these findings. I am listing what works for me.
Please exercise extreme caution when using any
of the materials below.
Tips for Anodizing Titanium
When I first began making knives, I scoured
the internet looking for resources on all
aspects of knife making. One thing I noticed was knife makers were
anodizing their titanium liners and such
with some of the most beautifully brilliant colors. I'm thinking,
that's what I would like to do. I proceed to
gather information on what I will need to get as far as supplies so
I can do this too! I buy a Variac off eBay
get a few parts from Radio Shack, buy some containers for the
electrolytes etc, etc, etc. I put everything
together and start my journey into anodizing.
What am I doing wrong!!!!!!! I can't
achieve the colors I want and everything looks like crap!
More experimentation, more muddled colors.............What next.
Time to dig in a bit deeper.
After further investigation, experimentation,
and countless discussions with some of the top knife makers,
I found out I had the right idea.........but the wrong supplies.
Below is some of the information I have gathered from several
resources which will help you achieve the anodized colors you are
looking for.
Variable AC or DC Power supply.
You will need a power supply that will allow you to adjust the
voltage
similar to the way a light dimmer switch works. To anodize titanium,
you need DC.
If you purchase a Variable AC Drive (variac)
you will need to
convert the AC to DC for anodizing.
What you will need is:
Bridge Rectifier 250C 5 AMP
Some wire
Alligator Clip
Mini Grabber
The rectifier will have 4 leads. The two that
are marked with a ~ should be connected to the AC leads from your
variac. Connect using barrel connectors or solder if you can.
Connect another wire from the + lead on the rectifier to the anode
(the Mini Grabber that holds the titanium) . Connect the - lead on
the rectifier to the cathode (the end submersed in your electrolyte.
More on anodes and cathodes below........
Variable DC Power Supply
This one is ready to go as is.
http://webtronics.stores.yahoo.net/lowcosioubep.html
The proper anode and cathode
The anode
The anode can be made from titanium or a clip
can be purchased from Reactive Metals. I tried making several anodes
out of titanium and was never unhappy with the results. I ended up
purchasing one from Reactive Metals and it works perfectly. The
anode clips that they sell are made with a niobium tip and are
called a "Mini Grabber"
http://www.reactivemetals.com/Pages/rmssup.htm
The cathode
Once again, I tried many different ways to
create a cathode and I found the best way is to use a piece of
Stainless Steel Heat Treating Foil. I cut the foil in such a way as
to leave a small strip on the top so it will hang out of the
container. To this strip I can attach the alligator clip that is
connected to the - side of the rectifier.
You will notice in the photo below that the cathode is behind a
plastic mesh screen. This is because you DO
NOT want the cathode and anode to come into contact with
each other. This plastic mesh can be found at many Fabric and Craft
stores for about 89 cents.
Electrolyte
Many people use 3 TBSP of TSP per gallon of
water and some say Coca Cola works as well. Been there, done that.
What I use is sulphuric acid. Go down to your nearest plumbing
supply store and buy a quart of the house brand of Industrial Drain
Cleaner. You guessed it, the drain cleaner is mostly sulphuric acid
with a few inert ingredients. Very carefully, using rubber gloves,
dilute 2 tablespoons into a gallon of water. This I have found is
the best solution for anodizing titanium. You will have enough to
last a lifetime and unclog a few nasty drains as well.
Electrolyte Containers
Nothing high tech here. A trip to the local
Target or Walmart will produce a beautiful set of Rubbermaid
Canisters.
I use the large size for the Electrolyte and the smaller size for
the Titanium etch.
Neutralizer
Very simply, dissolve a few teaspoons of
household baking soda into
a gallon of water. This will neutralize the effect of both the
Pre-Etch and the Electrolyte
Pre Etching the Titanium
Prior to pre-etching my titanium, the
resulting colors were sometimes unpredictable. I would wash with
detergents, soaps, degreasers etc. but none seem to do a great job.
When anodizing, the parts to be anodized must be perfectly clean and
free from all oils, dust, dirt, grease, etc.
Prior to anodizing, all Titanium parts are etched in a solution
purchased from Reactive Metals called Multi-Etch. I don't know what's
in this stuff but I would never again do any anodizing without it.
Well worth the expense.
http://www.reactivemetals.com/Pages/rmssup.htm
The Anodizing Process
Now that you have all the materials you
need, it time to have some fun. Let's color up some titanium!
Step 1:
Apply your favorite finish to the titanium parts you wish to
anodize. You can polish,
bead blast, jewel or just use a hand rubbed finish.
Step 2:
Wash your parts in a good dishwashing detergent to remove any dirt,
grime, grease etc.
Step 3:
Place your parts on the Niobium Mini Grabber and submerse into
the Multi-Etch for 15 to 30 seconds
Time to put on your rubber gloves.
Step 4:
Remove from the etch and immediately submerse into a container
of baking soda and distilled water
to neutralize the etch.
Step 5:
Remove the parts from the neutralizer and immediately submerse
into the electrolyte of sulphuric acid and water. (All power off at
this time)
Step 6:
Turn on the power supply and slowly apply voltage to obtain the
desired colors.
Step7:
Once color is achieved, shut off the power, remove the part from the
electrolyte and submerse into the neutralizer.
Step 8:
Pat the part(s) dry with a soft towel and sit back and go WOW!!
Experiment trying different things such as
creating a rainbow effect.
Completely submerse your part in the electrolyte and as you start to
turn up the voltage, simultaneously lift out the part. The varying
voltages will produce a rainbow of colors on the part.
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